My Review of the SodaStream Soda Maker

About a month ago we purchased a SodaStream, and after using it I wanted to share my review of this product.

While we try to live as naturally as possible, we still enjoy the occasional soda (okay, so the hubby likes one every day with his lunch too).  The thing that we don't enjoy is the enormous price tag or the waste leftover.  We don't live in a recycling state, so cans and bottles just end up in the trash.

I've had my SodaStream for about a month now, and here's the things I like about it so far:

• The price - Once you get passed the initial investment the maker and bottles, the price per unit works out to be much less than store bought soda.
• REAL SUGAR - in the regular soda versions, the sweetener is honest to goodness sugar.
• NO ASPARTAME - I'm a diet soda drinker, but like most people I'm scared to death of the potential risks of aspartame.  SodaStream's diet products are made with Splenda, and while some argue that it too is dangerous, the National Cancer Center has officially said that Splenda causes no health risks (at least at the time of this writing.  I'll update if I ever see that has changed).
• The flavor - I was really skeptical when it came to taste, but I've found that they really do taste just like the brand named versions.  I also like that you can control the amount of syrup/flavorings you use in your drinks.  Also, you can use your own flavorings to make terrific sparkling waters.
• No electricity required - Since we are planning to make the jump to off grid living in the next year this one was a biggie (I already have WAY too many gadgets and am going to have to downsize).
• Much less to store - In the space it would take to store just one 12pk, we have nearly 10 bottles of different flavorings, and each bottle makes approx 12 liters. 
• Quick & Easy - With this gadget you can literally make a bottle of soda in under a minute.  
• Reusable! - This one is huge for us.  Not only are the bottles reusable but the CO2 cartridge can be recycled and refilled.  One less thing in the landfills.

So what don't I like about the SodaStream?  Well, it's a big investment on the front end (units start around $80 each with the nicer looking units going for about $100). Extra bottles can be a bit pricey, and the bottles of flavoring are roughly $6 each or more.  

I am nervous about the unit's construction as well, being that it's mostly plastic.  So far it is holding up well and we'll just have to see how it does in the long term.

I do think that this is something that Prepper's should consider owning, not just the suburbanite or homesteader.  We read all the time about keeping morale up in a SHTF type scenario and to try to maintain a sense of normalcy while you are attempted to adapt to sudden changes in situation.  It seems like a silly thing maybe, but a bottle of your favorite beverage might just make things a little less stressful.  

Just my two cents really.

UPDATE 4/20/2012:  The SodaStream is still working wonderfully and the plastics seem to be very durable.  

Bringing Back the Tradition of Giving Baked Goods

I remember when I was a kid that it was perfectly okay for parents to make cookies and such for school parties.  There was a time when Bake Sales really were items baked by whomever was raising money.  Of course, back then it wasn't at all unusual to get gifts of cookies, pies, cakes and breads from Christmas from friends, family and neighbors.

 

Somewhere along the way we've given all of that up.  In most schools today, class parties are full of prepackaged commercialized foods.  Bakes Sales have been replaced by cookie dough drives through commercial business and candy bar sales.  Christmas seems to be reserved for overpriced items bought at retail establishments.  Sad really.

 

Last year we brought back the baked goods tradition. 

 

You see, my husband is a manager at a large manufacturing company.  Each of the managers buy their employees a little Christmas thank you - usually a $10-$20 gift card.  We weren't keen on this idea, as neither one of us likes gift cards (can a gift be more impersonal?), and the prepackaged gift packs of junk didn't suit us either.

 

So after another frustrating trip to the store, I said "Why don't we just buy some tins or buckets and I'll make cookies?"  My husband laughed.  Then we thought about it.  Why not?

 

Those employees that got our small Christmas buckets of cookies last year couldn't have been more pleased.  I made all the traditionals - Molasses, Gingerbread, Sugar cookies, Shortbread, Chocolate chip, etc.  They were so well received that they actually REQUESTED the same this year!

 

That means a couple of days busily baking away in my kitchen, but it's well worth it.  I'm also making some homemade bread for a couple of friends and a sweet little neighbor lady who buys eggs from me from time to time.

 

Simple traditions really are the best ones!

Info and Tips for Butchering Turkeys

The time had finally come to butcher the three big toms that I had left from a hatch earlier this year.  I've dreaded this day for months.  We are no strangers to butchering our chickens, but I feel a deeper connection to my turkeys.  If you've never owned one, then you probably don't understand just how personable a turkey can be.  They respond to their names, gobble and talk when they hear your voice.  And despite what most people will tell you, they are not nasty and aggressive birds.  My toms and hens have never so much as attempted to peck me, even during mating season.

 

So, you might be able to see why this day has been so long dreaded. 

 

I'm also a little leery of the unknowns in butchering anything that I have not done before.  So like always, I've spent the last week or so scouring the Internet for ideas and tips.

 

Most people like to hang a turkey upside down and cut it's throat to bleed it.  I may have mentioned this before, but I am not a fan of this method.  Proponents claim that the bird "falls asleep" and bleeds out quietly before death.  Personally, I can't imagine that having my throat sliced and being left to bleed out is painless or quiet.

 

There is a large group of people that prefer to break a turkey's neck, then remove the head to allow them to bleed out.  This can be difficult depending on the size of your turkey and if you lack much arm strength.  Also, once the heart stops beating it becomes a much longer process to get the blood to bleed out.

 

Lastly is the old chop-off-the-head method.  This is what we use for our chickens.  Yes, it's bloody, and yes, it seems brutal.  But honestly, it's the quickest way we've found.

 

Now, with turkeys this method can be dangerous, as once the head is removed the body will begin convulsing.  From doing chickens we knew that the wings can quickly get out of your hands and you can easily get "whapped".  This is much more dangerous with a large bird like a turkey or large duck.

 

So on the Internet I found the perfect solution - place the turkey in a feed bag!  Just take a feed sack, make an incision in the closed end big enough to put the head through, and proceed.  A noose tied to a nail keeps the head stretched out of the bag for chopping, and the you can easily hold onto the feed through the open end of the bag.  Once the head is removed the bag keeps those dangerous wings from doing you any harm!

 

I tried to include a link to the site that I gleaned this important piece of info from, but haven't been able to find the site again.  (Don't you hate it when that happens!)  I absolutely believe in giving credit where credit is due though, so as soon as I can find it I'll post the link up here.

 

Overall, the rest of the butchering process is very similar to chickens.  If you plan to remove feathers instead of skinning, you'll get the best results if you hot water scald them at 145 degrees for 45 seconds.  The feathers come out really nicely at that point, although you still may have to pull pretty hard on the big flight feathers.

 

I'll be canning up these big turkeys in the next few days and then over the Christmas break will be doing five more toms, two hens and some ducks.  There are still chickens to do as well. 

 

Love the farm life!

Livestock Guardians - Dogs

You might of read one of my recent posts about livestock guardians.  In that post I promised a follow up on Livestock Guardian Dogs, or LGDs, since there are so many different breeds.  Here, I'll cover the most common.

1.  The Great Pyrenees

My personal favorite of the LGDs, and the one most commonly found here in the southern United States.  The Pyrenees is a large, beautiful dog, fiercely loyal and a fantastic guard.  Here are their stats:

• Life Span:  10 to 12 years
• Size:  XL, male are typically 28-32 inches tall and weigh in at 110-120lbs.  Females are smaller (though not always), and are typically 26-29 inches tall and weigh in between 80 and 90lbs.
• Colors:  According to breed standards, these dogs are white, grey, tan or red, with white or white and badger markings the most common in the U.S.

The Pyrenees is fantastic especially if you are in a cool climate as they have very thick fur.  While they shed out fairly well, they may still require having their coat cut if you live in a warm climate.  

Pyrs are known for being thick headed and stubborn, and may be a challenge to train.  A lesson firmly ingrained becomes a lesson for life, and they are very intelligent.  

2.  Anatolian Shepherd

The Anatolian is a beautiful dog, and we see these a lot mixed with the Pyrenees in my area.  They are similar in size to the Pyrenees, but lack the really thick coat.  An Anatolian owner told me that in terms of personality, they exhibit the same loyalty and independent spirit that a Pyr has, only with a bolder, more aggressive guarding style (they are more apt to attack and intruder, as opposed to the Pyr who prefers to bark and chase).

• Life Span:  13 to 15 years
• Size:  XL,  males are the same 28-32 inches tall as the Pyrenees, but can outweigh them, at 110-140lbs.  Females are nearly the exact same size as males of the breed, and are found at 27-31 inches tall with a weight of 90-120lbs.
• Colors:  White, biscuit, liver, red fawn, blue fawn, and brindle.

Like the Pyrenees, the Anatolian is an independent thinker and can be stubborn.  

3.  The Maremma

The Maremma is a breed of sheepdog that originates in Italy, and is a bit smaller than either the Anatolian or the Pyrenees.  They are calm and intelligent, and take to training a bit easier than some of the other LGDs.  They are fiercely loyal to their flock or herd, but do best in pairs.

• Life Span: 12 to 15 years
• Size:  L, males are 26-29 inches tall and weight 75-100lbs.  Females should measure at 24-27 inches tall with a weight of 65-90lbs.  There are some strains of this breed that are considerably larger, and can weigh as much as 150lbs.
• Colors:  White

Like the Pyrenees, the Maremma has a thick coat and is best adapted for cooler climates.

4.  Akbash

Honestly, this is a dog that I have never seen in person, and the only ones I could find were expensive, registered animals in other states, so this may or may not be a good option for the smaller livestock owner.  They are however, beautiful dogs, and would be well suited to warmer climates as they shed down very similarly to the Anatolian.

• Life Span:  10 to 11 years
• Size:  XL, both males and females are 28-32 inches tall with a weight of  90-130lbs.
• Colors:  White

Other Options

There are several other breeds of LGD that may be good choices for you depending on local availability and what you are asking them to guard.  Most common in the U.S. are the Komondor, Kuvasz and the Tibetan Mastiff.  

The one thing to remember with any LGD is that they require a strong fence and will roam if given have a chance.  As a mentor once told me:

Think of an LGD as a greedy king - yes, home is his castle, but any lands he sees he instantly covets and desires to make his own.

An LGD is an important and long term investment, but one that I fully recommend to anyone with small livestock or poultry.  A year into owning ours, and we have not lost a single bird or animal to predation.

And that, makes every homestead happy!

Livestock Guardians - What's Right For You?

If you raise any type of vulnerable livestock, whether it be sheep, goats, poultry or just something small, at one point or another you will probably find yourself pondering the use of a livestock guardian.

Livestock guardians are, simply put, an animal that is trained to protect other livestock.  Each guardian uses a different method to protect it's charges, and in some circumstances you are best to use more than one type.  As I have owned and used the three main categories of guardians, we'll talk about them here.

One thing I would like to point out before we start is that it is my belief that good guards are born, not made.  Some animals will show a proclivity for guarding and some won't.  That doesn't mean that there aren't some that will do the job admirably with a little training.  

Livestock Guardian Donkeys

Donkeys can make excellent guards, depending on what you ask them to protect.  They are best used in cattle and miniature equine herds to protect against wild dogs, dog packs and coyotes.  (In Europe, they have even been used to protect against wolves.)  Donkeys can be used to protect goats, sheep and alpacas as well, although more careful selection is required.

The best donkeys to use as guardians are gelded males or jennies.  Using a jack is a dangerous gamble and should be avoided.  While some jacks are fantastic with other animals, they are most likely to be highly territorial and may turn on the  animals they are chosen to protect.  These animals do best as single guardians, as they are more likely to bond with another of the same species or other equines and disregard the animals they are assigned to protect.

Donkeys protect their area and charges in a couple of ways.  Some use vocalizations (braying) to alert the herd that predators are near, then round up their charges as attack the intruders as needed.  Jackson, a jack I raised from a weanling preferred to run at intruders, either chased them from his pasture or pacing his fence line as if "daring" the potential intruder to come in.  However, my gelding Zeke had a method all his own - he would act as if he didn't notice the intruder until it got within a distance to him where he thought he could get it, and then he would charge, attempting to stomp and/or bite the intruder until he had successfully run it out of his area.  (Several neighbor dogs have been injured this way, but none have ever attempted to come back.)

Purchasing a donkey will vary greatly depending on where you live, and whether you are investing in a standard or mammoth.  Expect to pay anywhere from $100 - $500 for a standard and $500 - $1500 for a mammoth.

Donkey Pros

• Widely available in most areas, though gelded males are usually harder to come by.
• Feeding requirements are minimal.  Good pasture in the growing season and a good grass hay in winter is really all they require.  
• Very effective against canines and is more likely to kill intruders than other livestock guards.
• Fairly low maintenance requirements.

Donkey Cons

• Young donkeys have been known to kill or injure goats and sheep in their care, simply by trying to play with them.
• Have been known to kill farm dogs, so if you have dogs they will need to be kept well away from donkeys.
• Not suitable for protecting against bears or mountain lions, although their have been some claims that mammoth donkeys will take on these animals.

Guard Llamas

Llamas seem to do best as guards for sheep, goats and alpacas, although they have also been used to protect calves and miniature livestock.

A llama guards it's charges primarily through the use of vocalizations to alert the herd or flock of threats.  Depending on the intruder, some llamas may even chase or attempt to stomp them.  

Finding a llama fit for guard duty can be difficult, and not all are born to it.  The best guards are usually gelded males, although some females will do the job as well.  Intact males, like intact male donkeys, should be avoided as they can be territorial with other animals and may turn on their charges.  Also, there have been reports of male llamas smothering female goats and sheep by attempting to mate with them.  

Having llamas since 1993, I can honestly say that in all the llamas I've owned, maybe 10% showed any real talent as guarding.  Gracelynn, a female, was probably my best female guardian.  She was not one to vocalize and alert, but was very prone to chasing things out of her pasture, including deer and dogs.  I've had several geldings that did an admirable job, mostly through vocalizations, although we did have one that would chase canines.  

Two of my very best however, were intact males.  (As I said before though, intact males should be avoided when guarding other livestock is the goal as you are far less likely to encounter problems.)

Spatz was a herdsire that we owned for a number of years.  When pasturing with the females he was prone to running predators and even took on a pack of neighbor dogs more than once.  After he and I had bonded, he regarded me as a member of his herd and protected me from a strange man that showed up on the farm by getting between us and keeping the man at a distance from me.  

Prince is an intact male that currently lives with us (and will for the rest of his days), and a son of Spatz.  He is probably the most observant animal I have ever owned and has been known to run dogs and even foxes out of his pasture.  He lives with our female goats at the present, and at feeding time is actually the submissive one, often times getting pushed out and allowing the ladies to have the best feed, despite being nearly 200 lbs larger than them!

Several organizations adopt llamas to be used for guarding, and I would highly recommend checking with your local llama associations.  Purchasing an experienced guard llama will cost you anywhere from $100-$500, depending on where you live.

Llama Pros

• Long lived, llamas can live 15-25 years under proper conditions.
• Bond well with sheep and goats.
• Can be trained to accept farm dogs. 

Llama Cons

• A good guard can be hard to find, since not all llamas show a proclivity for it.
• Not effective against larger predators like mountain lions, bears, or large dogs.
• Their only real defenses are vocalizations, charging and stomping, which may not be effective in all cases.
• Not good at deterring animals that they do not see as threats (unlikely to discourage raccoons, possums, etc.)

Livestock Guardian Dogs

A very popular option for guardian is the LGD, or livestock guardian dog.  These are usually breeds of dog that have been specifically bred to guard livestock such as sheep and goats.  The most popular breeds include the Great Pyrenees, Anatolian Shepherds, Maremmas, Old English Sheepdog, and several breeds of Mastiff.  

LGD's use several different methods of flock protection, including territory marking, vocalizations (barking), chasing predators, and even fighting them.  They are very useful against other canines, and can be used singly or in male/female pairs.  Unlike some other livestock guardians, LGD's are also great for guarding poultry, and will keep raccoons, foxes, possums and other small predators out of and away from pens.

Each of the main LGD breeds differ a bit in tactics and what they are best for, so look for another post I'm currently writing about the different breeds and how to select a good LGD.

Prices for LGD's vary greatly between areas and between breeds and can range anywhere from $100 - $1500.

LGD Pros

• Readily available in areas where sheep and goats are raised.  
• Useful against several different predators besides other canines.  Some research shows that when used in pairs they are even effective at discouraging bear and mountain lion attacks.

LGD Cons

• Can be challenging to raise and challenging to keep fenced in.
• Unlike other guards, dogs will need to be separated from their charges to be fed.

Guards in Tandem

Of course, there is nothing wrong with using more than one type of guardian.  I have found that donkeys and llamas can be quite useful together, as can dogs and llamas.  

I would recommend that you really do your homework and talk to other owners to get a good idea of what will work best for you.

Raising Turkeys - Part 1

Fall and early winter is the perfect time to start thinking about raising turkeys.  A number of good heritage farms begin taking orders for the spring hatch starting in November, while major hatcheries may wait until after January 1st.  Turkey sales often book up fairly early, so be sure to get your order in while the choices are still good.

Raising turkeys is not for the faint of heart, nor is it for those unwilling to wait.  Turkey rearing and breeding take time, dedication and research!

Since there is so much information to cover about these fantastic birds, I’m going to split it up into several parts.

• Part 1: Things to know about raising turkeys, compared to chickens
• Part 2:  Turkey breeds 
• Part 3:  Raising Poults to Adults
• Part 4:  Breeding turkeys

I hope you enjoy this series of articles!  Please feel free to send me an email or post questions.

Part 1:  Things to know about raising turkeys, compared to chickens

Of all the poultry I have raised, turkeys are by far my favorite.  These large birds are as friendly as they are beautiful and a great addition to any farm or homestead.

If you talk to enough poultry people you'll hear the full gamut of turkey horror stories - aggressive toms, birds so dumb they'll drown in the rain, poults starving to death with a full feeder, and on and on it goes.  I'm here to tell you though, that with a little understanding, you can be successful with turkeys.

Like all livestock, the key to turkey raising is always in selecting the right breeds (see part 2 of this series), and raising your birds correctly (see part 3 of this series).

The first thing to understand is that turkeys are a much bigger investment than most of their chicken counterparts, and that all parts of the turkey raising process is slower.  Turkeys will require a higher protein feed until they are about 6 months, at which time they can be moved out to sheltered pasture or into a turkey house and their feed adjusted accordingly.

When it comes to butchering, unlike the 12-16 weeks it takes to mature a young cockerel for eating, turkeys will require approximately 26 weeks (6ish months).  If keeping birds to breed, breeding cannot take place until 8-10 months of age, and is seasonal, in comparison to the nearly year round nature of chickens.

Naturally, turkeys will require more feed, more water, and much sturdier fencing.  They will also do best if raised away from chickens, who may be carriers of the dreaded blackhead disease that is a certain death sentence for turkeys.

Please read the other parts of this series for more in depth information.

Visit our Etsy Shop!

After months of working on items for our shop, we are now LIVE!

Please visit www.etsy.com/shop/HomesteadHandmades

We'll have more items launching in the coming months, including some small baby quilts, lap quilts, lap afghans and more soap varieties.  Tell your friends, and don't forget that Christmas is coming!