The Realities of Preparing For Your Livestock

An often overlooked or at least under-spoken-of area of preparedness, caring for livestock in the event of any sort of collapse is an important topic. For many of us, our livestock are part of our long term survival plan and crucial to our way of life.

Some people choose to prep for their animals much like they prep for themselves, by storing extra food and water for their creatures. This works for a little while, but at some point the supplies run out and then what? I believe there are seven things to consider when prepping for animals:

1.  How many animals do I really need? While I enjoy keeping around 50 chickens, realistically, a dozen good hens and two roosters could produce replacement layers every spring to keep my flock going, plus provide me with both meat and eggs.
2. What can I do with the excess animals? In some cases, bartering them away may be a good option, in others, butchering may be the course. Know what your plan is before you get to that point. It will relieve a lot of stress and allow for bettering utilization of resources.
3. How much storage room do I have? Unless you have a big barn that stays a consistent temperature and a way to keep out rodents and bugs, storing more than six months of grains is difficult at best. Don’t waste time or money storing feeds for animals you don’t intend to keep unless you have extra space. Does it make sense to store feed for 50 chickens if I only plan to keep 14?
4. How do I store my feed? The best long term solution for store bought feeds is to have large, metal garbage cans placed in a cool shed or barn. I’ve used heavy plastic bins and still had mice chew right through them! I’d advise again storing bags of grain for this same reason, but also because bagged grains can quickly go bad in the humidity of the south.
5. Do I have a way to grow or obtain feed for my animals when the store bought stuff runs out? You may need to think about adding gardening space, growing your own hay or something along those lines. Be realistic. You just may not be able to keep your dairy cow or goat flock like you had planned.
6. Can I meet the water requirements of my animals? Really think about how often you turn on the hose and fill those tanks and water containers. If you don’t have a pond, stream or well, maybe it’s time to think about installing a cistern or putting together a rain barrel system. Like us, animals cannot survive for long without water.
7. What else do I need to do to keep my animals healthy? Chickens may need oyster shell for strong egg shells, goats and sheep really need a good mineral supplement. And do you have a plan for dealing with parasites?

The following are recommendations for storage and options for feeding livestock post-shtf. These aren’t just my ideas, as I’ve taken some of these suggestions for emails and conversations I’ve had with other livestock owning preppers.

• Cats - A full metal garbage can of cat food will keep a cat for at least a year (depending on the cat). Long term, unless Miss Kitty has been declawed, most cats can hunt well enough to care for themselves, and it’s not unusual for a domesticated cat to go feral once you are no longer offering them food. If you insist on trying to keep your cat as a pet, do try to acclimate them to an eventual change in diet by adding shredded meat (raw or cooked) to their daily feeding. As you run through your cat food storage, try adding more and more meat. In theory she’ll be eating meat by the time you run out of store bought foods.
• Dogs - A metal garbage can full of dog food is a worthwhile investment, and keep in mind that dogs are one animal where size matters! A full can of dog feed only feeds my Great Pyrenees for two months or so, where that same amount will feed my mom’s little housedog for nearly a year! Dog aren’t the great scavengers and hunters that cats are, and if you choose to have dogs you need to understand that you will be responsible for feeding them for their entire lives. Luckily, dogs can be turned to a meat diet fairly easily, and will also eat eggs and vegetables (carrots, peas and potatoes cooked soft are usually best). There are few dogs that will turn up a nose at table scraps either! Don’t forget that dogs do require occasional worming, and that in the south there is always a potential for heartworm. While I would suggest keeping enough medication on hand for a year or two (since most wormers are small enough to store easily), there are some natural alternatives as well: A daily dose of grapefruit seed extract, fresh garlic, freshly ground pumpkin seeds (raw, not baked), wheat germ oil and vitamin A (cod liver oil is a good source) are just a few.
• Rabbits - Domesticated rabbits have been bred to do best on commercial rabbit feed. That’s just the way it is. That doesn’t mean that you can’t get decent to good results with natural feeds, just be prepared to go slowly as rabbits have sensitive digestive tracks. Properly acclimated, rabbits can do quite well in mobile yard pens or even in outdoor colonies. If you decide to keep your rabbits caged, try to store six or more months of commercial feed and at least a dozen bales of timothy and or alfalfa hay. Long term raising can be done by feeding grasses, and lots of other things found in the garden. (Some things, such as cabbages and lettuces, must be fed in moderation to avoid upsetting a rabbit’s digestion. A little research now will save you lots of heartache down the road.) Garlic and pumpkin seeds are good natural wormers for rabbits, and most rabbits only require deworming if you notice weight loss or dullness of coat.
• Goats - For most of the year, feeding goats can be fairly simple as they are efficient browsers, and are known for their ability to go feral second only to cats. Goats do require a good quality hay and/or alfalfa in winter though, and dairy bred milkers require a good feed. Kinder goats, Spanish and pygmies are more robust and may be a better choice for home milking without the higher feed requirements. A good supply of hay kept in the barn would be a worthwhile prep, although make sure to rotate it through as nutritional values drop over time. An average sized goat will require about 2 gallons of water per day, with lactating dairy breeds requiring at least three. Goats need to be checked regularly for parasites, and benefit from natural wormers of garlic and pumpkin seeds as well as from apple cider vinegar added to their water tanks. Commercial wormers can also be stored, and if kept in a cool dry place can still be effect well after their expiration dates.
• Cows - A good pasture will keep a cow going all for most of the year. Winters will require either pastures of winter ryegrass or hay. Storing feed isn’t a necessity here, but it would be worth the effort to store at least a full winter worth of hay. Cows will eat corn and a variety of other grains if you can grow them. If you insist on raising cows, you might consider one of the smaller breeds like Dexters, or a good heritage breed like Pineywoods that have a better feed conversion rater. Keep in mind that a true dairy cow will be nearly impossible to sustain due to their feeding requirements. Additionally, cows require on average 15-20 gallons of water per day during hot weather.
• Pigs - The day to day raising of pigs/hogs can be challenging without feed. Not because of a lack of feeding choices, but more because of the amount of feed needed, especially if you are keeping breeding animals. Pigs will eat nearly anything, and will eat rats, snakes, mice, and the occasional wayward chicken if given a chance. For over wintering, root crops and scraps will do them nicely - potatoes, carrots, beets, turnips, etc. In all honesty, with the feral pig population of the south, you might be miles ahead to take up hunting and avoid raising them altogether. If you decide to raise pigs, do remember that they drink approximately 5 gallons of water per day, and in hot weather may require a mud hole to keep cool in.
• Equines - Good pasture, and hay! Although equines can be supplemented with things like carrots, apples, and sweet potatoes, roughage is essential to them. If you must keep equines, be prepared to grow and store large amounts of hay for the winter months. Water requirements are fairly high also, with a 1000lb horse consuming 10-15 gallons per day. However, depending on the scenario and the size of your property, a horse could prove invaluable not only for transportation, but also for hauling, plowing, etc.
• Chickens - During the growing season, chickens can be free-ranged or housed in mobile range pens. Being omnivores, chickens will happily eat just about anything they are given and have been known to eat mice and even snakes! Winter feeding requires a bit more effort as there are few bugs and the nutritional value of most grasses goes to nil. Winter squashes can be grown and stored for chickens, as can corn, sunflower seeds, millet and oats. Pumpkins grown for chicken feed have the added bonus of providing pumpkin seeds as a natural dewormer. If you have a dairy animal, most chickens will also consume milk, which is helpful in keeping up the calcium levels of laying hens. Currently we keep two garbage cans full of cracked corn and layer pellets mixed together, and that feeds our flock of 50 for about six weeks on minimal forage. If moved onto range during the spring through fall months and supplemented with squashes during the winter, we could easily get through a full year, and even further if we cut our flock back to our bare minimum number of a dozen hens plus two roosters.
• Waterfowl - Ducks are fair foragers and love insects, including slugs and snails. Geese on the other hand are excellent foragers and can happily exist on pasture and weeds. Unlike chickens however, waterfowl have a hard time consuming most vegetables, making over wintering more difficult. Corn, sunflower seeds, millet, and oats are all possible feeds, as well as kales and lettuces which can be grown in the cooler months. I store two garbage cans of feed corn for my dozen ducks, knowing that with supplementation of lettuces and such I could easily get through a whole winter. Spring through fall they should require no feed if given enough room to range. In a post event situation, waterfowl would be best kept only if they have access to a pond or lake due to their high water requirements.

Other Food Source of Note:

• Kudzu - Some animals love it, some hate it. Whether you raise rabbits, goats, horses, chickens or cows it’s worth a try if you have some growing nearby. The protein count of kudzu is high enough to make it a worthwhile fodder, but be careful when feeding it! Pieces that are knocked to the ground and left may be able to root themselves, and soon you could be dealing with a kudzu nightmare.
• Fodder Beets - Although not grown in the United States as much as abroad, fodder beets are an excellent resource for feeding pigs, cows and horses.
• Sweet potatoes - While sweet potatoes require a lot of space to grow, they do exceptionally well in our area and are a good feed for equines, cows and pigs. They can be cooked to a softened state and fed to goats and poultry as well.

Other items to consider:

• Apple cider vinegar - Absolutely worth storing or learning how to make no matter what critters you keep on the farm. It can be added to animal or bird water at the rate of 2 ½ teaspoons to 5 gallons of water and protects against intestinal worms, and is helpful against a variety of other conditions including scours, pinkeye and foot rot.
• Mineral Blocks - All livestock benefit for having access to trace mineral blocks, especially when not being fed commercial feeds. Blocks are generally inexpensive and easily stored. Mineral blocks made for rabbits are small and disk shaped and you can fit a lot of them in a reasonably sized box. Loose minerals are also available in a bag form, though in my experience you get more bang for your buck when you buy blocks.

Overall, livestock husbandry in a post-event scenario will be challenging but do-able. Mankind has been raising these animals for thousands of years without commercial feeds. As preppers we just need to get back to basics and find solutions that work for us.

Pygmy Goats - The all purpose livestock?

Although we haven't started our herd yet, I've been doing a lot of research on pygmy goats and are thinking that compared to other animals they may just be the perfect livestock for small acreage and/or a crisis situation.

For meat purposes:

1. Most pygmies butcher out at 45-50% of live weight, which is similar to the Boer goat.
2. Goat meat has less calories than rabbit or chicken and is extremely lean.
3. Fat is not marbled and is easier to separate and discard (although in my thinking this could also make it tougher in some situations).

On the milk front:

1. In a study done at the University of Oregon Medical School involving cattle, sheep, dairy goats and Pygmy goats, it was found that Pygmies showed a positive preference for compounds tasting sweet, salty, sour and bitter, which may suggest they find a wider range of plants palatable.
2. Does willingly give up to 2/3 gallon per day at the peak of their lactation.
3. Pygmy milk is higher in calcium, phosphorus, potassium and iron than milk from dairy breeds, and is lower in sodium.
4. Poly estrous sexual behavior means they can cycle year-round as opposed to dairy breeds. If milking is a priority, a continuous supply of milk can be obtained by breeding two does alternately.
5. Natural teat conformation helps Pygmy does resist mastitis, a bacterial infection of the mammary system, usually gaining entrance through the teat orifice. Pygmies usually have small orifices in addition to well-attached udders that are held close to the body, out of harm’s way.

Other keeping considerations:

1. Pygmies and other goats can be kept in brushy areas not good for cattle.
2. On acreages with poor vegetation, stocking densities range from 2-4 goats per acre. Areas with good vegetation can have stocking densities as high as 8 goats per acre.
3. Compared to other goat breeds, the much small pygmy can be more easily contained in a standard 48" tall fence.

The Dream of Homesteading

Ever since the days of Little House on the Prairie I've dreamt of living on a farm. Growing up my parents always had some acreage, and over the years we've had a variety of livestock (dogs, cats, chickens, turkeys, geese, ducks, llamas, cows, pigs, and goats). We never really homesteaded - it was more just folks with land and a few critters. Momma grew a garden and daddy hunted, and of course the whole family fished.

Getting to the point of having a true "homestead" is a long process. We are seven years into the adventure and get a little more self-sufficient every year, but we aren't kidding ourselves either. My husband still works at an automotive manufacturing plant, we eat out several times a week and we have an in ground pool in the backyard (although to be fair, it came with the house).

The farm is still a work in progress and far from where I want it to be. Although we have a garden, I still dream of producing all my own vegetables year around. We have fruit trees, but they are young and we really haven't had a good harvest yet. Chickens, ducks, turkeys, llamas, donkeys and a pair of rabbits make up our animal lineup, but we still don't produce all of our own meat. Not to mention that we've got the LGD (Livestock Guardian Dog) guarding poultry while we build fences and research that perfect breed of goat!

And there's so much more to it than just critters and crops. We are always looking for ways to make the house more energy efficient, and are adding solar power to the poultry houses to provide lights and power fans. We burn wood in the winter as much as possible, and I'm trying to start my own small crafting business selling homemade quilts, afghans and aprons.

I guess the biggest part of the homestead dream is just doing away with the things that don't matter and moving towards the stuff that does. We aren't into the smart phones, we don't see movies in theater and we don't drive brand new and expensive cars. Instead we have phones that don't do much more than MAKE CALLS. Movies are enjoyed together at home and usually from the Wal-Mart bargain bin. And as for cars, sure, my '96 Chevy truck ain't pretty but she hauls whatever I need.

To me, the greatest things in life are simple - homemade jam on fresh baked bread; sitting on the front porch watching the llamas graze; talking my dog for an evening walk; seeing seeds pop their heads out of the soil; giving a homemade quilt to a soon to be mommy.

Sure, we aren't there yet, but we sure are enjoying the journey.

The Start of a Rabbitry

I'm a reader.  Always have been, and most likely always will be.  I don't embark on any journey without adding a book to my (considerable) library. 

A couple of years ago I read an article in (I think) Backwoods Home magazine.  It was all about raising rabbits.  Now, I had rabbits a time or two during childhood, and prior to the article they had always been just cute fuzzy pets.  After reading, I realized that for the homesteader, rabbits are truly a wonderful addition.

Since that first article I've read a ton of articles online, and bought a few books.  I've also talked to rabbit owners and breeders.  Not only are rabbits a great source of low fat meat, but they breed quickly and provide excellent fertilizer.  A definite win for this gardener!

I have plans to build a 9x9, 12 hole rabbit house sometime this year.  As I have a million other projects that also need to be done, this one is on the list but not near the top. 

Of course, I'm always a little nervous about adding a new critter to the farm, and so I try to always start small and get a feel for it first.

So, I'm sure you're thinking that a 12 hole rabbitry is probably not starting small, and you're right!

Instead I've started with something more reasonable.  Today on Craig's List I found two female rabbits and a hutch for a price that I felt was plenty reasonable. 

The hutch itself isn't exactly a jewel, in fact it'll need some work before I feel truly confident in using it long term.  The does are another story.  One is a lovely young New Zealand that will eventually make a meat breeding doe.  The other is a small lop eared bunny, that we may just keep as a pet (mostly because she is such a sweetie!).

By starting small we have ample opportunity to get to know the ins and outs of rabbits before adding breeding to the mix.  This also gives me plenty of time to get a feel for the extra chores, and when you are already dealing with 2 donkeys, 8 llamas, 70 chickens, 5 ducks, 11 turkeys and a VERY large puppy, chore time is everything!

Raising Rabbits Essentials e-books

For the beginners and experienced alike!

Homesteading vs. Prepping

Believe it or not, I get asked "what's the difference between prepping and homesteading?" all the time.

Up until a year or so ago, prepping wasn't a word that most people even knew.  Now it seems entrenched in the mind of the American public, thanks largely in part to NatGeo's Doomsday Preppers television program.  So what is the difference?

Beliefs

Homesteaders:  Believe that we have gotten too farm away from our traditional roots and have lost a number of the skills of our forefathers.  We believe in reclaiming that heritage through action by practicing self-sufficiency and frugality. 
Preppers:  Believe in a number of scenarios that result in a breakdown of civilization which will result in a person or persons not being able to depend on traditional services.  This means planning ahead for all aspects of life: food, water, shelter, communications and security.  This is not about reclaiming heritage, though learning traditional skills are sometimes involved.  This is more of a survival mindset and often with the end goal of waiting it out until civilization rights itself or until a new one is created, post-scenario.

Thoughts on the Prepper's five pillars:

Food storage/production:

Homesteaders:  We try to produce enough food for ourselves and our families with enough to preserve for the future.  Homesteaders often have roughly a year's supply of food on hand.  Most items are preserved with a mindset of extending the harvest until the next reaping - as in you can tomatoes in summer to carry you through to the next year's tomato harvest.  What isn't grown on the homestead is usually purchased in bulk, although not always.  Most homesteader's shy away from anything pre-packaged, including commercially canned goods.
Preppers:  In the case of most preppers (although certainly not all), food production is secondary to food storage.  A number of preppers invest in dehydrated or freeze dried #10 cans or buckets of fruits, veggies, and staples.  Although people vary, it's not unusual for preppers to store heirloom seeds for future gardening, but don't actively garden now.  In regards to meat, it seems that the plan is always more focused towards hunting instead of raising livestock.  Some do engage in gardening and livestock tending, but purchasing seems to be more the norm.

Water:

Homesteaders:  Don't generally store water.  Although most try to have a spring or well on their properties to draw from, even those that do don't always have a way to collect water in a power outage.  Some use rain barrels to collect rain run-off  for gardens or animal useage, but generally don't have a way to purify if needed to use as drinking water (and even with purification this is a tricky area).
Preppers:  Store water.  Have ways to filter and purify water.  Some even have water catchment systems in place and/or wells with a way to manually pump water if necessary.

Shelter/Land:

Homesteaders:  Generally don't believe in extravagance.  We work the land we live on, and try to find and/or create the most energy efficient dwelling we can.  Although most homesteaders strive for a place in the country, this is certainly not a requirement and plenty of people have become modern day homesteaders on small acreage in the suburbs.
Preppers:  Often have a "Bug Out Location" located in the country and as farm from people as they can get it.  If the property has a home it is usually built in such a way as to be defensible and is more utilitarian than the home of a homesteader.  Unless a prepper lives full time at their retreat (and some certainly do), it is often lacks most home comforts and is more in line with a weekend cabin or hunting cabin.

Communications:

Homesteaders:  Don't generally worry about this.  Most have phones and/or cell phones like every body else, although some certainly don't.  We often have Internet, radio, and TV - although we might now always have much time to spend watching it! 
Preppers:  Have all the same modern conveniences, but plan ahead for a time without such things.  Many preppers invest in walkie-talkies, NOAA radios, HAM radio, etc.  Preppers feel that communication is vital in a collapse and feel the need to be on top of this at all times.

Security and Medical:

Homesteaders:  Again, not something most homesteader's think of.  A hearty percentage of homesteaders have guns for hunting and/or varmint killing, but don't keep that large of an ammunition inventory, although that has changed in recent years due to fears about losing our rights to bear arms.  Most homesteaders don't worry about things like security cameras, alarms, or multiple firearms in the event of invasion/self-defense.  On the medical front, we try to look for natural remedies and herbs when possible, but most of us accept that at some point we need the help of a qualified physician.  First aid kits are essential but not extensive, and ours includes things for our animals.
Preppers:  In almost all scenarios, preppers believe that a collapse of our systems will lead to looting and a need for self-defense.  Because of this, preppers usually have a stockpile of firearms and ammunition, but also many layers of defensive strategy and systems in place to secure their retreat location.  This includes fences, perimeter alarms, security cameras, night vision setups, guard dogs, etc.  Medical items can range from fully stocked first aid kits, to surgical sets, to full-on pandemic supplies depending on the person.  Preppers accept that in a grid down situation they or someone in there group will be acting doctor and take steps including participating in classes and purchasing physician manuals.

So can you be both of these things?

I certainly think so.  Although we mostly identify ourselves as homesteaders, we are ever incorporating prepper ideals into our lifestyle.  I think the current economic climate dictates that some preparedness is essential.  Additionally, living in the south where there is always a threat of hurricanes or tornadoes means taking care of yourself and your family is essential.  Even FEMA and the Red Cross are advocating preparedness, even if only on a limited basis.

Whatever you call yourself, no matter how you do things, stay safe out there!